The Bridges
Designer Tristan Laney poses with his models (top row, left to right) Anna DePorre, Raegan Davis, Amelia Zeitlin, (bottom row, left to right) Audrey Jones and Reghan Scharlach backstage before the VIM Fashion Show in East Lansing, MI on Thursday, Mar. 14, 2024.
Photograph by Milan Lazovski
Fashion From Another World
ECLECTIC ABDUCTION
March 14, 2024.
Minutes before the show.

Lights up on stage. A full house awaits. From the shadowy wings of the Wharton Center’s Pasant Theatre, the occasional whisper and shuffle of bodies hints at the hushed chaos hidden backstage.

In a crowded stairwell, models smooth staticky flyaways from their hair, roll back their tensed shoulders, bare their teeth at phone screens to triple check for stray lipstick smeared on their teeth. Designers flurry around them, poring over garments for stray sequins and loose threads, fluffing stiff tulle, instructing their charges on how to hit the sharpest and fiercest end-of-the-runway poses.

The stage manager hisses an instruction, which gets passed down the line of anxious participants.

“The show is about to begin.”
Reporter
Justice Seay

Photo
Elizabeth El-Behairy
Milan Lazovski
Justice Seay

Video
Joshua Kreiter
Gabriel Martinez Hannah Ruddy

Data Visualization
Alexis Morton






»
One last deep breath, and Tristian Laney silently ushers his five models from the stuffy stairway to the pitch-black stage-right wing.

In a few seconds, months of conceptualizing, sketching, patterning, sewing and altering will come to fruition. For the first time, the world will see Eclectic Abduction.

One month earlier.

VIM Magazine’s Spring Fashion Show is fast approaching, and all eyes are on Tristian Laney.

Each year, the student-run fashion magazine hosts a runway featuring the work of Michigan State University’s best and brightest designers. Last year, Laney was a show standout.

The then-freshman apparel and textile design major crafted over 20 looks — nearly one-fifth of the show’s total presented garments — for his 2023 collection, titled Overgrown.
Tristian Laney admires his models as they pose for a picture backstage at the VIM Fashion Show on Thursday, Mar. 14, 2024. Photo by Justice Seay
For weeks, Laney’s designs were the talk of East Lansing’s fashion scene, garnering attention for their exaggerated silhouettes, playful textiles, and mod ‘60s influences.
Images from behind the scenes moments before the VIM fashion show on Thursday, Mar. 14, 2024. Photos by Milan Lazovski

Needless to say, when this year’s designer applications opened in November, Laney knew his participation was expected. And if he was going to top 2023’s career-defining success, this collection had to be out of this world.

His solution: An alien invasion.

Combining mid-century American suburbia with elements of cult classic film mise-en-scènes such as “Mars Attacks,” “The Rocky Horror Picture Show” and “Edwards Scissorhands,” Laney found the baseline concept for his 2024 collection Eclectic Abduction.

“As a designer, I definitely take masculinity and femininity and play with them.” Laney said. “I like to have a lot of fun with breaking gender ideals and gender expressions. Things that normal people look at as everyday expressions of themselves are intensely gendered expressions that I think cisgender people don’t take the time to interact with enough.”

“I definitely wanted to bring a sub-idea of queer people taking over space that we usually aren’t allowed to be in,” Laney said. “Seeing a queer person as an alien is really nothing new.”
Tristian Laney's models file into the stage wings moments before walking the VIM Fashion Show runway on Thursday, Mar. 14, 2024. Photo by Justice Seay.

Tristian works on his designs for the Spring '24 VIM fashion show on Wednesday, Feb. 7, 2024 in East Lansing, MI.
Photo by Elizabeth El-Behairy
Laney, who is transgender, is no stranger to invoking inspiration from queer culture in his designs. Influences for his 2023 collection included drag artists, queer art and LGBTQ+ designers such as Jeremy Scott, former creative director of Moschino.
“I’m always inspired by anybody who’s doing something original, doing something creative, taking ideas that we’ve seen before and putting them on their head,” Laney said.

However, before Laney discovered the art of major fashion houses and celebrity drag queens, as a child he idolized an artist much closer to home: His mom.

“Tristian, from as young as I can remember, was crafting alongside mom, crafting out on their own,” Tristian’s father Jay Laney said. “As soon as they could figure out how to run a sewing machine, they were stitching different clothes.” “They were never a child that was eating the glue stick,” Jay Laney said. “Just a child who used it to make things.”
Tristan plans his next outfit. Photo by Gabriel Martinez
Laney’s interest in fashion piqued early and came on strong.

“I was definitely someone who loved to play dress up,” Laney said. “One of my favorite things to do was take one of the table runners and put it on my head like a veil, and walk around with a big cape. Oh, my goodness, I loved it.”

“I’ve always remembered having dreams to be in a fashion show,” Laney said. “One of my favorite movies growing up was ‘Barbie: A Fashion Fairytale.’ I wanted to have my fairytale moment.”

After noticing Laney gravitating toward clothing and design, his mother aimed to support his passion in any way possible, from sourcing unique costumes and dresses to style, to teaching the basics of sewing.

“Things did come to me easily, creatively,” Laney said. “The process of learning skills, I don’t think is anything that can be done naturally. I always remember struggling with the machine, figuring out different ways things go together, trying to find the correct way to do things, make things finished, look nice.”
“Then I’d bring it to my mom, and she’d always say ‘Here’s a problem, here’s a problem. Do it again,’” Laney said. “In a loving way. Trying to get me to learn and teach me things.”

Heeding her advice, Laney would try again. And again, and again, until he began to see his childhood fashion sketches coming to life.

“Having a support system in my parents has always been something that has followed me, and I’ve always been really grateful for it,” Laney said. “No matter what I do, I know that I can have at least those two people in my corner.”

Now 20 years old and already running his own clothing line, it’s no longer just family members in Laney’s corner; It’s more supporters than he can count.

“Once I started showing other people my work and engaging with the community in my work, it really showed me that what I do has a giant positive impact on others, and I can bring so much joy,” Laney said. “The support really just encourages me to keep going.”

“Having those people in your corner, and always having somebody tell you ‘You’re doing a good job, I like what you’re doing, I saw what you did and enjoyed it,’ it fuels me,” Laney said.
Weeks of late-night sewing sessions in the studio and meticulous model fittings in Laney’s shoebox dorm — crammed in his schedule between classes, extracurriculars and nights out with friends — fly by in a flash.

As show day creeps up, sustainably-sourced scraps of fabrics transform into structured corsets, skirts and dresses. Together, they form the campy, imaginative, otherworldly tour de force that is Eclectic Abduction.

“Sharing my vulnerability with people through my pieces is something that comes very easily to me, I believe, because what I create can be interpreted in so many different ways,” Laney said.
“It’s baring your soul to other people, and the acceptance or rejection from that, you can’t control,” Laney said. “But I figured out a long time ago that I would rather do myself, and not worry about what anyone else is thinking, than try to fit into what other people want from me.”

This year, Laney isn’t paying any mind to gaining approval from close-minded critics. Instead, he’s asking his loyal supporters to approach this collection with the same enthusiastic fervor they afforded to Overgrown.

“I’m definitely looking forward to seeing that reaction again,” Laney said. “This collection is something that’s quite a bit different than what I’m usually putting on the runway, as it’s a lot more expressive and campy and dramatic than what I’m usually doing, and I’m hoping that people allow themselves to have fun with my collection as much as they see it.”

March 14, 2024
Minutes after the show.

Eclectic Abduction is met with raucous applause from VIM’s audience, marking a second year of success for Tristian Laney.

Tristan poses for a portrait after the VIM show. Photo by Milan Lazovski
“It’s so exciting. Hearing everybody cheer was really a great time and I’m excited for the [final walk], and getting out there on stage too,” Laney said. “The lights are so bright, and everything’s so hot and loud, you can’t see anybody. But it was such a good time.”
— Tristan Laney
“Right now, it’s just finally settling in,” Laney said. “But when I get to go home and sit down, reflect and feel all of it for the first time, it just really sets in that — we did that.”

After one final bow from the designers, VIM’s 2024 Spring Fashion Show officially comes to a close.

“Tristian’s my kid, so as a dad, you always want to know that other people recognize and appreciate all of your children,” Jay Laney said. “And I just could not be more proud of Tristian tonight.”

What’s next in store for Tristian Laney is yet to be seen, but what’s certain is that, with two stellar runways under his belt, he’s continuing to shoot for the stars.

“I want to win a big award, I want to have a runway in Fashion Week, stuff like that,” Laney said. “As much as it feels like just a little personal dream I’m having in my bed, so did one time having a collection walk a runway.”

Published April 8, 2024.
Photo by Jacob
Photo by Leio
Photo by Jacob
Photo by Marion
ABOUT THIS PROJECT
Sharing stories of belonging, inspiration, and community.
SUB[CULTURE] is a multimedia project researched, pitched, produced, and distributed by the JRN 410: Advanced Photojournalism class at the Michigan State University (MSU) - School of Journalism. After narrowing their story topic to subcultures, our visual journalists decided to take a closer look at what makes Michigan State University a special place of belonging for the 50,000+ students enrolled and the communities that support our fellow Spartans. This semester, the subculture we explored was our LGBTQ+ student community. Explore more of their stories by clicking the links below.
Previous
A Hous For Everyone
As she learns to navigate the world as a transgender woman, Michigan State University student Josie Ferrandino finds an escape from anxieties and a community through the art of drag performance.
Next
Bringing Inclusion To Sports
Two MSU student athletes reflect on how their teammates and the LGBTQ+ community provide them a comfortable home away from home.
Made on
Tilda